| Potting Orchids - Re potting orchids
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| Propagation of Orchids by
Division and re potting of Odonts, Cymbids etc |
| Repotting part is half way down
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| Division is a very simple way of propagating
your favorite species or variety of orchid. It involves finding the natural
break between the two or more parts of the plant and dividing down this
natural split. Here we are dividing a Beallara City of Glasgow 'Langley
Pride' AM/RHS but you can use this method on almost any plant which grows
pseudobulbs such as Odontoglossum and types, Cymbidium, Coelogyne and Miltonia
plus the clump forming varieties such as Dracula, Masdevallias and Paphiopedilums.
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| This plant has reached the limit for this
size pot and is in need of division or repotting. The plant is in need of
either dividing or repotting when the new growths have reached the very
edge of the pot and any future growth has to take place outside the edge
of the pot - above left |
| After removing the pot you should see plenty of white
roots which have filled and used used the compost, (see opposite) if your
roots are not white then it could be due to over watering. An orchid
plant with bulbs can survive for quite some time without watering but will
not tolerate being over watered and will in fact wilt giving the impression
that it needs watering more. The reason for this is that the roots have
died and the plant can not take up the water so it does indeed die due to
lack of water!. If in doubt leave it a week. Don't use this method
with plants that are bulbless though as they have no water store built in
and will wilt due to 'genuine' water loss.Some orchids don't have white
roots though and it is important to be able to differentiate between the
two, Paphiopedilums have dark brown or even black roots naturally but the
roots are firm to the touch and not soft as is the case with a rotten root. |

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| Gently pull the plant in opposite directions making sure that each
part has at least 3 bulbs and one new growth, the aim of doing this
is to establish where the plant has a natural split.
This loosening will show you where to divide the plant, in the
photograph opposite you can clearly see where the left part of the
plant has grown away from the right side of the plant. |
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Once you have established where the natural split is you can apply
stronger pressure to split the plant fully in to two or more parts.
If the plant has a strong rhizome connecting the two parts then
you can use a sharp, preferably sterilized knife, to cut through
it so that uncontrolled ripping doesn't occur.
You will now be left with 2 or more divisions of the same plant
each with at least 3 bulbs and one new growth - see opposite |
Re planting an Odontoglossum orchid, Coelogyne or Cymbidium
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| You will now need to remove the old compost from
around the roots and trim away any brown, soggy, dead roots. Cut the dead
roots off right up to the base of the plant and this will ensure that they
don't rot upwards and affect the rhizome or bulbs. This is also the time
to remove any ferns or other plants growing in the pot - weeds - for that
is what they are should be removed otherwise they will quickly clog up the
open compost mix with their 'normal' root system and use up and nutrients
you give the plant. Many of the ferns you may find growing in orchid pots
are very suitable as house plants in their own right and can, if you want,
be potted and given to friends as gifts. |
| Carefully trim back any white growing roots to
about 4 inches and use them to help anchor the plant in the new compost.
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That's the scary bit over with! You should now assemble
the repotting kits which comprises of:
- Your division
- A pot with sufficient space for two seasons growth
- A suitable grade of orchid compost - more
- The label for the plant
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Starting with a clean pot, add some larger pieces of bark
or some polystyrene chunks in to the bottom to allow swift drainage.
Here we are using the former. |

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Ease the roots in to the pot and spread them evenly to ensure
that the plant will be securely anchored.
Don't put the plant in the centre of the pot but position it in such
a way that the new growth is in the centre, this will ensure that there
is sufficient space in front of the plant to allow for 2 growing seasons.
Use an appropriate grade of compost dependant on the type of orchid,
here we are using a medium grade orchid compost as this plant has relatively
thin roots and so they will be able to get hold of it easily, thicker
rooted orchids such as Cymbidiums will require a large grade compost.
The easiest way of adding compost is to hold the plant in one hand whilst
filling the pot with compost using the other.
Make sure that the bulbs rest on the surface of the compost and are not
buried in it. They may need pulling up a little to get the level just
right. |
| Using your thumbs press heavily on the compost to compact
is sufficiently to hold the plant steady. The open nature of the compost
will prevent you from over compacting it so don't be afraid to apply pressure.
An orchid which wobbles in it's pot will not root well and will not re establish
itself. |

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Finally label your new plant and give it a good soaking
from the top, do this twice with 2 hours between to ensure the compost is
damp and then leave it for two to three weeks before watering again. During
the first 6 to 8 weeks keep the plant in a shady position and leave well
alone (other than watering) to give the new brittle roots time to get a
hold in the new compost
After about 6 weeks you will see new roots emerging and the plant will
be fully established after approximately 10 weeks.
Congratulations you have just divided your plant and you can use this
technique on several varieties of orchid including:
- Cymbidiums
- Paphoiopedilums
- Odontoglossums and types
- Draculas
- Masdevalias and any other 'grassy' type orchids
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